Saturday, 4 June 2011

Canadian Capers - Day 0 - Sonia's Version

Arrived at Heathrow, checked in, had some lunch, got on a plane, turned left instead of right which meant I had a seat which turned into a bed, nice, had some Champers, thank you, watched some films, had some more snap, had a sleep,woke up worried there was an engine emergency as loud droning from the back but it turn out it was just Alec snoring, arrived at Vancouver, got picked up in a stretch limo - bit OTT Alec - got to hotel, had a kip.

Friday, 3 June 2011

Canadian Capers - Day 0 by Alec

For a last day at work before the grand Canadian tour it had been a dirty job. The Champagne and pre-flight dinner in the BA Concorde Lounge made a very agreeable accompaniment to the DefCapture V5 development testing. iPad on the table, PC and mouse and Visual Studio in one hand and a very respectable Shiraz from the BA cellars in the other, the debugging had gone well. In fact better than the packing, which was just as well as it just gave me time to go and purchase a pair of shoes in lieu of those which we even now assume are still sitting in the porch at home, carefully and conspicuously positioned so they could be forgotten in the 'fog of war' which is packing for long distance travel and which the kids will no doubt trip over when they get home.

Having passed through passport control and customs and declared nothing but our talents for writing this nonsense, we spied the jumbo waiting for us in the sun. Speedbird 85 was to be our chariot across the heavens this evening. Our favourite Great Uncle B A Miles had presented us with tickets in the 'pointy end' of the 747 so we swiftly Fast-Tracked passed the cattle ruminating towards the Stables in the wings and were whisked away to our bed settees and sleeper suits.

Settled in to what was to be our oasis in the sky for 10 hours, the iPhone chirped with an e-mail from BlizzardTours offering the chance to visit the 'Volcanoes of Iceland'. Last week a cloudy viewing had looked likely to become a free and mandatory part or our flight. The irony.

As the glass pre-takeoff Champagne slipped down, I reflected on the notion that there was something positively satisfying about burping loudly in First Class as the engines roared to life. As the mighty mechanical bird climbed through the clouds my thoughts turned to what lay ahead.. I'd soon be among seas of floating ice, cooling glaciers, frozen lakes and rare and exotic vegetation. Sooner than I thought as it happened as Roger the Cabin Boy brought me a nice Gin and Tonic on Ice and some interesting looking canapes to muse over. We settled down for the night, afternoon, lunch and breakfast as the plane fought against time and the rotation of the globe.

The approach into Vancouver was truly stunning. The white snow capped Rockies sweep down to rivers where it looks like lumberjacks have been playing games of giant Pooh-sticks on a magnificent scale as logs line the rivers. As the estuaries smudge into an icy cold Pacific, a sparkling, colourful sun lit multi-storey city rises with towers punching skywards. Vancouver shimmers like the Disney Castle glinting and twinkling in the sun.

The taxi we'd booked to the hotel turned out to be a stretch-limo with a trunk (translation tip: 'boot') the size of a Ford Transit which was just as well judging by the amount of cargo Madam had brought. With the baggage shipping manifest checked, we were off to the Fairmout Waterfront. Though it was now 2am Friday night in the UK and thus 'party time' we decided the neon strip lights, 2 million Watt Drum and Bass Boom Box and fully stocked bars on either flank which the limo sported, could wait for another day. Instead, we checked in, grabbed a quick burger and crashed out in out 19th floor bed.

Wednesday, 28 October 2009

Alec's version of the Great Barrier Grief!

I have never regarded myself as racist, I am happy to embrace all cultures and creeds (except if they are trying to blow me up) but I do like to commentate on the foibles of non-English folks. Likewise I am sure they like to comment upon us too, but of course they do not realize the English are simply misunderstood.

As the Big Cat (catamaran not feline) left the quay at Cairns bound for Green Island, an intense noise suddenly hit us. Not the noise of the engines or screws but that of the Oriental community which seemed to make up about 95% of the boat’s passengers. Not able to reliably distinguish Chinese from Malaysian or Korean or Japanese or the host of other South East Asian countries, I was somewhat stunned at the Far Eastern Throng that had apparently overtaken the boat.

I had thought the Americans were the loudest spoken people on the planet by far, but I am now not so sure. Whether it is the tinny, bird twittering-like sounds that a twenty-strong Malaysian mob makes or the Korean cacophony or the twangs of a vely cheelful Chinese clowd I don’t know, but the sounds were deafening and unyielding. Not being able to understand a single word, or sound, or chirp I suppose does not make it any easier. You can’t even understand or eavesdrop on what they are falling out over, but the facial expressions are a wonder to behold.

It was a pleasure to leave the boat and get my head in the water! The Pentax underwater camera seemed to work well inside the submarine. The corals were really colourful, much more than we had seen on other underwater trips. It was a great way to see the reef, but for me the alternative glass bottom boat where you can feel the sea air is more natural.
We moored back at the catamaran just as the lunch bell was sounded and the hungry tweeting herd moved in. The bar deck became “termite central” with dozens of Orientals shuffling around and jostling for pole position. I had not seen so much food piled on plates since Pizza Hut introduced the all you can eat at one visit salad bar. Diminutive Korean elderly women who you would think would have the appetite of a sparrow returned to their tables staggering under the weight of a 14” high pile of Noodles, Rice, Pizza, Steak, Ham and Eggs and Lasagne. One woman had cracked it managing to move half a hundred-weight of food by spectacularly balancing four plates on her Zimmer frame. I waited to see what she would do for dessert, perhaps a magnificent encore was in store? Another younger man was frantically trying to return to the buffet against the relentless flow as he had not realized that “No 27” came with chips.

I decided not to venture into the melée until the dust of rice and noodles had settled and observed a middle aged man, Japanese I would guess. He intrigued me for a few minutes as I watched him methodically surveying the buffet several times before moving in quite deliberately. He, like so many of the people from The Far East seemed to enjoy watermelon. Large slices of succulent red flesh with a highly contrasting emerald peel, very tasty. Curiously though this man was carrying three plates, upon two of which were stacked neatly ten or more slices of melon. The other plate was empty. I wondered if he was going to sit down and try to solve the Towers of Hanoi problem.

After lunch we headed to the dive centre to pick up our all-in-one black slinky numbers in Lycra. We had been warned about stingers, but the fact that these cute suits had hoods with padded ears was enough for me, anything to deaden the sound of Noi Si and Big Din. We joined the SCUBA boat and sped off to a spot about 1km off the coastline. We were shown the signs for “I’m okay”, “Please pick me up” and “I’m actually drowning” and in the certain security of our new found safety knowledge everybody plunged in and we were left alone to get carried off on the current.

Although the fish were lovely to see and swim amongst, the highlight for me was floating over a large purple tinged giant clam. Time seemed to stop as I watched and waited to see if it would close up. I was a bit too nervous to prod it, but in my day dreaming observation, I started to hope some damsel would float by and get her leg caught in it and I could swoop down and rescue her like in the best 007 movies. In reality I was terrified of the thing. Suddenly it closed it shells and covered its ears as a party of Japanese snorkelers clattered by making a hell of a din. Guys – they’re supposed to be snorkel pipes for breathing not f-ing didgeridoos!

Back on the boat, the anchor was weighed in at just less than 24kg and we headed back to Cairns for a sleepy hour cruise. Or not as it happened. I thought the water in my ears from snorkelling for several hours had induced a mild form of Tinnitus. No, I was wrong. It was the Indonesian inundation settling down again, this time to replay and review at full volume the megabytes of digital video they had taken. The noise was even worse now; we had to contend with Dim Sum shouting loudly so that he could be heard over the video of Dim Sum Jr shouting loudly. I put on my Bose sound reducing head phones and returned to my anthropological studies of Far Eastern man.

I noticed a remarkable fact about the body lengths of oriental people. At first I thought that all Japanese men over a certain age, probably around 55, had rather longer legs than upper bodies. I then realized that this was due to a specific fashion trend. Then I noticed that the optical illusion was due to everyone appearing to wear Simon Cowell style trousers. This and the rather odd shuffling movements – like convicts on a chain gang - made Japanese Man quite easy to spot.

We moored back at Cairns and the colony of ants made a noisy exit down the gang plants. As we walked back to the hotel I reflected that we’d seen some incredible and peculiar living organisms, many under the ocean and some on the boat. I need a break from Japanese tourists I think. Oh damn, I’ve just realized we’ve booked to see the Mikado at the Opera House in Sydney this weekend.

Kuranda Scenic Railway tour

A luxury air-conditioned bus (apparently you don’t call them coaches here in Oz) collected us from the Shangri La Hotel at 8am and we enjoyed a first scenic tour of most of the hotels in Cairns before arriving at Freshwater Station 15 minutes out of town. This was like stepping back in time, a very quaint and pretty station with lots of trees and flowers and a bit of a museum thing going on about how this railway was built by demand of the gold rush in the late 1860’s. We enjoyed a quick tour before Alec realised that there was a “GOLD class” that we had not been told about, so he quickly tried to upgrade us, but alas, they were fully booked today, so we would have to sit with the masses (and save ourselves another $45 per head for the privilege!) We ascending, with some difficulty, the ladder that led us to carriage number 9 where we seemed to be crammed in like sardines and sitting backwards against the direction of travel. This doesn’t suit me so at the first opportunity we changed carriages to find an abundance of seats in the next one down, but none by a window. Oh well we could muscle in when there were decent photo opportunities!

to be completed

Sunday, 25 October 2009

The Mystery of Uluru

It seemed that the whole of the Ghan train and all the brochures about the Red Centre were focussed on one thing: the Mystery of Uluru and the magic of the sacred monument. As we pulled into Alice Springs we were all set to seek out the mystery. But first we went to “tourist-central” to do the mandatory whistle stop tour of the Royal Flying Doctors, School of the Air, Reptiles Centre and the Old Telegraph Station.

Bed in the “Crossroads Motel” and then an early start coaching it to Ayres Rock Resort via first a Camel Farm and then onto the Mt Ebenezer Roadhouse, the latter of which turned out to be an aboriginal greasy spoon and bar where the bar snacks included witchetty grubs and pickled snake. Sonia didn’t fancy the grubs so we went in search of an authentic boomerang. It turned out that with enough HP Sauce, the grubs were actually indistinguishable from a kind of snot filled pancake roll, despite being they are large, white, wood-eating larvae of moths.

We arrived at the resort and checked in to The Sails of the Dessert with barely an hour before the start of the “mystery” tour. The heat was phenomenal and the pool beckoned, so a quick change and a large splash, the monster of the lake, (Alec) appeared ten minutes later fully refreshed and ready to go.

Given what must have been ten warnings from the driver about consuming plenty of water in the heat of the desert, we started to pack for the epic journey to explore sunset at Uluru, the aboriginal name for Ayres Rock. The check list had been modified heeding advice and now comprised: video camera, digital SLR with interchangeable fish eye and telephoto zoom lens, 3 x 1.5 litre bottles of water, a spare bottle of water, a spare, spare bottle of water, daft hat, GPS tracker unit, small portable personal air conditioning unit with back-up batteries, ice maker and turbo fan and one final spare bottle of water. Loaded down like a camel about to make for the middle of the Sahara, we boarded the air conditioned coach for the base of the “Kata Tjuta”, the usefully short indigenous words for “big bizarre lumps of conglomerate rock sticking out of the dessert”.

The first stop was a viewing platform about 3km from the formation. We learned that “formation” was the term those in “the know” used to describe a lump of rock formed from a depression being filled by an alluvial fan of eroded rocks washed off the top of the Petermann Mountain Range and then millions of years later being forced upwards in an orogeny that took place in late Neoproterozoic to early Cambrian times. We de-coached and walked out on to a 200m barbeque grill and sizzled. ‘Struth it was hot! The heat blurred the scene and distorted the photographic images. All forms of movement slowed. Arms glistened with sweat within minutes even though we walked a few steps at a time and began to curl up at the edges; crickey mate, we’d become those reptilian thorny little devils we’d seen earlier.

The relief of a 25C coach environment meant we began to function again. Sonia continued her efforts to crack her Oz-stray-li-en acc-eeent, practising on the unsuspecting Aussies on board.
The next stop was the Walpa Gorge – a pleasant 1km climb in 40C. It was no comfort being told that this was not actually desert, since dessert was defined as having less than 12mm of rain per year, and this area experienced 15mm. I drank another litre of water before stepping out of the coach and set off into the gap between the two sheer cliffs which define the gorge. The sun lasered on to the track and reflected back up at me, and heat bounced of the two steep walls of rock. Attacked from all sides by intense heat I was being slowly griddled. I think they should rename this place to Waffle Gorge and cover everyone with maple syrup upon entry.

An hour later we were back the coach having covered the walk at just 1km/hour! The coach now made for the “spectacular” finale of the day, sunset over Uluru. We arrived at the Uluru Sunset Viewing area which was basically a car park full of coaches. Having warned us all day of the dangers of dehydration and alcohol being our worst enemy, they gave us a glass of wine and as many refills as you liked while the sun began to fall behind the horizon. We had expected to watch the sun set behind Uluru but in fact it’s the colours cast on the rock that are to be observed. Uluru went a bit red and then it was dark.
As we piled back into the air conditioning of the coach, roasted and weary, I could not help asking myself, “Why do people come 8,000 miles and endure blast furnace conditions to huddle round a large red sand castle in the middle of nowhere in the dark? This is clearly the Mystery of Uluru.

Alec's version of our Ghan Train experience

Although Hercule Poirot never travelled on the Ghan, preferring to take his chance on the rails of Europe, by the end of the first ‘meet and greet’ session in the Explorer Lounge, it was clear we had all the characters necessary for a re-run of that infamous Orient Express mystery. Over the first few chapters and some sparkling wine, the cast was gradually introduced as follows:
 Mac and Mable, husband and wife pairing of Tram Ticket Inspector and Tax inspector from Sheffield - I was instantly sceptical as they say “likes do not attract”. This couple were an apparently harmless out going happy-go-lucky pair, but with a deep dark secret
 Tom “The Train” and his wife ChooChoo – experts in Ghan refurbishment and on whom suspicion would later fall due to their inside knowledge of the workings of the train
 The enigmatic Mr and Mrs Boothroyd from York who told you everything but actually told you nothing
 Camilla and her mate Bob (battery operated boyfriend) who was travelling with two new found “companions” who had never met before, but was this in fact the entire truth? And when Bob had a headache, more questions were asked.
 Bruce and Sheila, a well-loved-up couple of gentleman farmer and new partner from Adelaide who had six children between them none of which had ever met, or so they said.
 And the sisters of mercy, Miranda and Matilda, over from England allegedly for their father’s 139th birthday but soon suspected of being undercover agents from the last outpost of the British Legion Rotarians.

The scene was set as a rather rotund Train Master, a man dressed in an outback hat and carrying a six barrel walkie-talkie, shouted “All aboard”. We all climbed aboard and the doors were closed and locked. Locked again. Dead-locked. Digitally secured - there was to be no escape, whatever happened. The train however did not move. Over the Tannoy came the advice, “Due to an incident in one of the Gold Service carriages, the train would have to be re-organized, and a carriage removed, shunted, front-shunted, back-shunted, top-shunted, shaken and stirred. Passengers were not to leave their cabins and were to stay seated until further notice. And if the was a Greek Orthodox Priest on board could he make himself known please.” I knew immediately that something fishy had happened and all stories of an air conditioning unit failing in the carriage were clearly to be filed under “cover-up”. My guess immediately was Camilla had slipped away from Bob and tickled someone to death.

When we finally rolled out of Adelaide, Casey “Jones”, the chief hostess invited guests to assemble in the Queen Adelaide dining car. I knew it, everyone together for the uncovering of the murder weapon – was it the bizarre stainless steel bed-pan device which pivoted from the wall of the private closet and closed like Arkwright’s Till as one raised one’s bottom from it? Or perhaps, a deadly concoction of black snake venom from a King Brown discretely mixed in the Black Choot Sparking Shiraz. It was neither, it was actually lunch. Clearly the murderer was teasing us, playing it cool at this stage. I thought I had uncovered a clue when the waitress asked if we wanted a drink after dessert – “Would we like Tea or Coffee?” “Yes, an espresso please.” “Sorry Sir, we don’t have that we only have coffee.” Had the waitress lost her cool and blown her cover, er no, I had not realized she was Australian and therefore had to be forgiven.

[Technical note from Rex at the Reptile centre in Alice Springs, if you get bitten by a King Brown, it’s actually a black snake and not a brown snake, so go to the chemist and ask for black snake anti-venom, and not brown snake anti-venom, otherwise you will die.]

The train rolled on, on down the line, I was leaving Adelaide behind. A man has to keep moving, moving on, like the breeze.... I felt a Blues song coming on so I picked up my didgeridoo and retired to our Gold De Luxe cabin. For my money you can keep the Platinum two windowed apartments at the front of the train (too much noise anyway from the Class NR locomotives pulling us along at 85kph), we were very happy with our double bed, table and chairs, picture windows, Jacuzzi, patio furniture, guard dog and small plunge pool as the Ghan ploughed on through the GAFA.

As the green pastures gave way to red sandy parched river beds and saltbush, petrified forest and tumble weed, once again all guests were summoned to the dining room. Ah ha, I had rumbled it this time, in true Agatha Christie style, all the suspects gathered in a single space for the dénouement of the plot –were we about to find out what had really happened in Carriage 52 and whether stories of a collision with a cow and derailment leaving the last train 15 hours late, were all true? As we all gathered, sneaking side-wise glances at each other, it was tense, so tense - the atmosphere was filled with the smell of Vegemite. Cans of diet koala were handed out.
“Ladies and Gentlemen, nay, Ghan Folk, by the end of what I have to show you, you will all see each other in a different light. You initially appear as a group of people brought together in a chance meeting on board a train passing through the middle of the GAFA, like camels passing in the desert night. What I will show you will be most scary and chill you to the core. Without further ado, and to the sound of screams of terror, the chief hostess opened up the on board Ghan gifts for sale cabinet.

Melbourne experience -

TBC